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KINGDOMS, CHURCHES AND THE AMBER COAST
VILNIUS
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Kaunas
Kaunas
Population: 500,000
Distance from Vilnius: 98 km
  • Ride one of Europe’s oldest funiculars to the top of Aleksotas Hill for some of the finest views of the Old and New Town
  • Experience one of the worlds most bizarre museums: the Devil Museum

Kaunas is located at the meeting point of the Neris and Nemunas rivers, the former connecting the city with Lithuania’s capital, Vilnius.  It is now the third largest city in the Baltic countries and has an international airport.   It is a thriving cultural and industrial centre of Lithuania.

Kaunas was settled in the 13th Century and by the 15th Century, it had become very successful and held the office of the prestigious medieval trading organisation of the Hanseatic League. Large parts of the old town remain intact including the original Kauno pilis (Kaunas Castle), the earliest stone castle in Lithuania and only castle with doubled stone wall.  There is a beautiful Old Town with merchant houses dating from the 16th Century.  Cobbled Rotušės aikštė (Town Hall Square) which contains the Kauna rotusė (Town Hall), referred to by locals as the White Swan, is the most impressive.  Since it was erected in the 16th Century it has been used as a prison, the seat of Government, an orthodox church, a warehouse for artillery, the temporary residence of a tsar and a theatre!  15th Century German merchant houses surround the Town Hall Square.

In 1812, Kaunas received one of its more famous visitors.  Napoleon and his party were well received since the people were very supportive of his intention to overthrow occupying Russian forces.  In fact, they named Napoleon Hill after him.  Climb the hill to stand in Napoleons footsteps when he watched his men march towards Russia.
With Vilnius occupied by Russia in 1919, the State Council and Cabinet of Ministers moved to Kaunas.  Then, in the following year, when Vilnius was then invaded by Poland, Kaunas became the capital.  The city experienced great economic and population growth during this time and much of the majestic New Town was built.  Kaunas remained the capital for two decades.

The main artery of the New Town is Laisves aleja (Liberty Avenue), the vibrantly bustling pedestrian walkway.  Miesto sodas (City Garden) has a tribute to Romas Kalanta, a 19 year old student, who in 1972 set himself on fire in front of the Musicians Theatre in protest against occupation.  There is also a Laisvės paminklas (Freedom Monument), which was originally erected on 16th February 1918 but hidden during the period of Soviet occupation and resurrected in Vienbės aikstė (Unity Square) on 16th February 1989.  At the end of Liberty Avenue is the Sv Mykolas archangelas (Church of St Michael the Archangel), which looms magnificently over the whole avenue.  Amazing views of both the Old and New towns, including Church of St Michael the Archangel can be found by crossing the Nemunas river and catching the funicular to the top of Aleksotas Hill.

For a museum like no other, visit the Velnių muziejus (Devil Museum) with sculptures and carvings of devils, including Stalin and Hitler devils dancing around a pile of Lithuanian skulls!  The devils are from Lithuania and all around the world and the museum even offers educational programs on devilry.

Opposite the Devil Museumis the M. K. Čiurlionis State Art Museum – a shrine to one of the most influential men of modern Lithuanian culture.  During his life time, Čiurlionis created 200 pieces of music and 300 paintings, most of which are located in this museum.

If there is one thing that Lithuanians love more than Čiurlionis, it is basketball! They are crazy about the game, particularly people from Kaunas.  The town is very proud of its champion home team: the Kaunas Zalgiris.  Definitely go and see a game while you are in Kaunas and make sure you wear a golden scarf!

Just outside Kaunas is the IX Fortas (Ninth Fort), built in the 19th Century, to fortify the western frontier of the tsarist empire.  The Nazis in WWII transformed it into a death camp, where Kaunas lost the majority of its Jewish community.  There is also a museum where you can learn about some of the horrendous crimes committed against Jews and Lithuanians by Nazis and Soviets respectively.  Ironically, this is also the site of the only operational synagogue in Kaunas.  Close to Ninth Fortis the splendid baroque Pazaislis Monastery, surrounded by delightful orchards and gardens is the site a very popular music festival in the summer.

Great Baltic Touring Route is fully supported by Wris Travel Agency, Estonia. Contact: +372 612 9140
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